![]() Pick something like 210 and you'll be safe for nozzle temp. For PLA this is typically around 205-220. Your filament roll should have a recommended temperature range printed on a sticker stuck on it. Whatever you do, don't just pick any old profile and go with it. And some settings are very important to get right. Getting a default profile from the manufacturer is the best way to start as all the important things should be pre-set. You should be able to find a default profile for your printer in most common slicer software, or if one is not included, look on the USB drive that came with your printer, and failing that you can ask someone else here. You will modify the values in the profile to change the way your models get sliced if, and when you need. ![]() ![]() You will need to create a profile for your filament and your printer in your slicing software and you should ensure you have a default profile set up before anything else. Slicing is the software converting the 3d model into a series of commands that the printer can interpret called GCode. Here's some further information:ģd models may come in several formats, but. Select the file from the printer's menu and press the go button and watch the machine start working.Įasy as that. Save the resultant file (.gcode in your case) to SD or USB. Load your model in your slicer software (Cura, etc) and slice it. ) ).īecause there's some confusion with how to even start, basically, your flow would go similar to such:Ĭreate a 3d model in modelling software or download a model from the internet. Reason: You'll need it anyway and this whole procedure of finding the right temperature and so on needs to be done with a new spool anyway as the settings may differ.ĭon't rush on this and keep your head up, it'll take some time until you'll get nice prints out of it (usually at least. In case you didn't get a 1kg spool of filament yet and you are starting by using the 10m filament which came with the printer: don't bother yourself with that stuff, get a decent (= not the cheapest one out there, maybe choose a well knwon brand like eSun or whatever) spool of filament (PLA or PLA+ which is a bit more rigid) and start with that. These things print out pretty fast as they are just 2x2cm and also don't need a lot of filament. So don't get frustrated if you try to print something with the above mentioned settings and it comes out ugly ) Also don't start this whole journey with big prints right away, use small and standardized models first like a calibration cube for example. Once you got a bit familiar with the printer and the procedure itself, you'd have to do many calibration procedures (like for temperatures, retraction settings, e-steps and so on). These settings are just for starting tho, of course you have to find all the settings by yourself which give the best results. Also check the retraction settings as you have a direct drive extruder (I think): if so, the go with max 1mm retraction distance and a retraction speed of about 30mm. If you're using PLA and the regular 0.4mm nozzle that came with the printer, maybe start with 200☌ print temp, 60° bed temp, 50mm printing speed, 0.2mm layer height. Like a clogged nozzle, printing temperature not high enough and therefore the filament didn't melt and so on. If your printer started moving but nothing came out but just a blob, it might be due to many reasons. The g-code contains all the settings and the specific commands for the printer about how and where to move, where and how much to extrude and so on. copy to the card or send it via USB to the printer using e.g. Then you generate a g-code file by clicking on "slice" and save the file. In there you set all the desired settings like print temperature, print speed, retraction distance&speed and so on. So as mentioned before you *always* need an additional "slicing" software like Cura or so. In case it didn't became clear yet, just to make sure: the printer can ONLY use g-code files, either from a card or via USB, *not* STL or whatever. This is a steep learning curve but when you get it right it's very rewarding. If you have not already figured out the Z-Offset, then check out this vid: ĭefinitely give these pages a read: They have been created by u/catnippr I met him on this forum & regularly talk about issues via email. Cura is the program that will take your stl files & turn them into gcode. But from what I have learned I would say check out the following:ĭon't connect to your computer using USB, Use the SD card to files back & forth, unless you later set up an Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi or similar.Ĭheck out this community & r/anycubic for best Cura settings. Putting it all together was not really problem & getting all the software setup wasn't an issue. I have the Kobra Neo & was completely new to this game late December. ![]()
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